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《美食总动员》中麻辣批评家的文章

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发表于 2009-1-29 01:20 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
  在许多方面,评论家的工作很轻松,我们不怎么需要冒险,却能享受比那些提供自身作品供我们评判的人高出一等的地位。我们热衷于批评别人,作者和读者都觉得有趣。但我们批评家必须面对的苦涩事实是:总的说来,任何普通的垃圾食品都可能比我们对它的批评来得更有意义。但有时评论家真正需要冒险的,是发现和呵护新生事物。这世界对新天才、新创意常常太过刻薄,这些后起之秀需要朋友。    昨晚,我品尝了某道全新的、由一位奇特而又出乎意料的厨师制作的美味佳肴,那道美味和它的制作者同时挑战了我对美食的偏见:我的看法太保守了。他们彻底颠覆了我的观点。过去,我毫不隐晦地蔑视Gusteau主厨的名言“人人皆能烹饪”,但直到现在,我才真正理解他的意思:不是每个人都能成为伟大的艺术家,但伟大的艺术家可能来自任何地方。
    很难想像还有比Gusteau餐馆的天才厨师出身更为低贱的厨师了,但在我这个评论家看来,他丝毫不逊于全法国最顶尖的大厨。我很快将再次光临Gusteau餐馆,期待更多美味佳肴。
 楼主| 发表于 2009-1-29 01:21 | 显示全部楼层
In many ways, the work of a critic is easy. We risk very little, yet enjoy a position over those who offer up their work and their selves to our judgment. We thrive on negative criticism, which is fun to write and to read. But the bitter truth we critics must face is that in the grand scheme of things, the average piece of junk is probably more meaningful than our criticism designating it so. But there are times when a critic truly risks something and that is in the discovery and defense of the new. The world is often unkind to new talent, new creations. The new needs friends.



  Last night, I experienced something new, an extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source. To say that both the meal and its maker have challenged my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross understatement. They have rocked me to my core. In the past, I have made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gusteau's famous motto, ''Anyone can cook.'' But I realize only now do I truly understand what he meant. Not everyone can become a great artist, but a great artist can come from anywhere.



  It is difficult to imagine more humble origins than those of the genius now cooking at Gusteau's, who is, in this critic's opinion, nothing less than the finest chef in France. I will be returning to Gusteau's soon, hungry for more.
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发表于 2009-1-29 02:19 | 显示全部楼层
。。>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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发表于 2009-1-29 11:48 | 显示全部楼层
在<<美食>>里..我也很喜歡那個評論家...覺得他的話確實很受用~
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